What is a sıra gecesi? An evening in Midyat, explained

The sıra gecesi is a way of gathering that has lasted for centuries in south-eastern Anatolia. The word sıra means turn: the duty of hosting passes from one person to the next each week. Over time the custom moved out of private houses and into courtyards and mansions.

What separates it from a concert is that the music is not alone at the centre. It rises between the conversation and the table. Nobody has to face a stage; people sit opposite one another.

How the evening unfolds

It usually begins as the light fades. The first half hour is for settling in, greeting and tea. The ensemble then opens at a low tempo, more like a background to talk than a performance. Nuts, fruit and çiğköfte arrive at the table during this stretch.

The tempo rises as the evening goes on. At some point somebody stands up, the halay circle forms, and the character of the night changes. That moment is never scheduled; a good ensemble senses it and chooses the song accordingly.

The close is slow. Long, heavy songs are sung at the end and mırra coffee is passed around. Mırra is bitter and taken in one sip; it is customary to thank the person as you hand back the cup.

What is served

This is not a heavy dinner table. The aim is not to fill you but to stretch the evening: çiğköfte, a nut platter, seasonal fruit, Syriac pastry and tea that never stops being refilled. In Midyat the signature of that table is the mırra served at the close.

Who comes

These evenings were once mostly gatherings of men. That picture has changed in Midyat: families, groups and visitors from other cities now share the same courtyard. At Konak Baypark the evening is arranged for that — no alcohol is served and the seating is set up so families are comfortable.

The sıra gecesi at Konak Baypark starts at 19:30 and ends at 23:00 every evening. The courtyard seats 150 and reservation is required.